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KENTUCKY LAWN
& GARDEN TIPS
 Kentucky
Bob Says : Time
to apply TEAM to control crabgrass in established lawns. 40# bags usually
covers 1/2 acre..........Apply fertilizer and lime now through march to you
lawn.......prune apple trees now.....Do not trim early Spring flowering shrubs
(they have already formed their blooms)
Don't wait too late
till after you start to see crabgrass, then it's too late for pre emergence control
Have you ordered plants from
mail order and received bare root with no soil ? These are O. K. as long as they are
dormant. Plant right away if possible. Soak roots for 24 hours in water just before
planting. If you can not plant right away be sure to heal them into the soil until
you can.
A great
way to improve 90% of all our lawns is to increase the PH by liming with pelleted lime at
the rate of two 40# bags per 1000 square feet.
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Having trouble with getting
grass under your trees? Most of the time tree roots cause poor stands of grass. The tree
roots absorb most of the moisture and plant food needed by the grass to grow. Ivy or rock
beds around the base of large trees can be very attractive and long lasting.
ANNUALS
ABOUT ANNUAL FLOWERS
WHAT IS AN ANNUAL?
An annual plant completes
its life cycle in just one season, from seed to flower to producing
seeds, all before frost kills the plant. Most annuals are tender (killed
by frost) but there are some which are fairly hardy and will take low
temperatures late into the fall. Annuals bloom quickly from seed (that's
their schedule) and most can be planted directly outdoors.
HOW TO USE ANNUALS IN YOUR GARDEN:
Plant in large
groups, or in masses, or in rows -- whatever effect you like. Some
annuals are pretty when used as a low hedge or border around other
plants. Annual flowers also are wonderful companions to perennial
plants, especially perennial gardens which have been recently planted
and may not bloom the same season. Plant around mailboxes, in an old
tire, or in a wheelbarrow. Annuals are wonderful in large containers,
too, and in hanging baskets. Allow space for plants to grow (if too
crowded, they can’t bloom well).
CAN I PLANT ANYTHING ELSE WITH MY ANNUALS?
YES! Combine with
spring-flowering bulbs, summer flowering bulbs, perennial plants,
blooming shrubs. They're also great combined with a lot of other annual
flowers.
PLANT COMBINATIONS TO TRY (ANNUALS IN RED)
- Daylilies and Peonies with Daffodils,
Dahlias and Marigolds, Calendula and Nasturtiums
- Hosta and Bleeding Heart with Tuberous
Begonias and Impatiens, Coleus and Pansy
- Echinacea and Liatris with Lilies and
Vinca, Scabiosa and Cornflowers
- Poppies and Daylilies with Tulips, Lilies
and Ageratum, Lavatera and Larkspur
- Rudbeckia and Hollyhocks with Cannas,
Gladiolus and Zinnias, Verbena and Snapdragons.
- Use your imagination -- Anything
goes!
HOW TO GROW ANNUALS
PLAN YOUR GARDEN:
S ketch
the area on graph paper. Put groups of similar plants together for
pleasing color effect from a distance. Allow space (one to one-half
times plant height) for plants to grow and spread.
EVALUEATE AND PREPARE SOIL:
Select an area
that's well-drained (no puddles after rain). Improve soil by adding
plenty of organic material before establishing your garden, and do so
every year thereafter. Loosen soil by tilling or digging to a depth of
6-12 inches. Turn over well, forking in the organic material. If a soil
test indicates, spread a balanced fertilizer over the area, and work in.
Smooth the soil surface and mark the locations for planting. If starting
a new garden in spring, wait until your soil has passed the "clump"
test. A palm-full of soil should stick together when squeezed, then
break apart into medium-sized particles. At this point, it’s safe to
work soil.
PLANTING:
Scatter seed in
bands, groups or rows, according to packet instructions. When seedlings
have several pairs of leaves, thin then out and mulch around each plant
(a 2-3 inch layer).
WATERING:
Water well daily,
so seedlings will emerge quickly and begin to bloom. After plants are
established, water weekly.
Other than removing faded flower heads and regular watering, annuals are
pretty carefree. For early-flowering annuals, cut plants back when
flowers have stopped appearing. This will encourage new flowering. If
you've planted annuals for cutting, be sure to cut frequently because
this will encourage more flowers for future bouquets. Enjoy!
FAVORITE ANNUAL FLOWERS FROM SEED INCLUDE:
African daisy,
ageratum, alyssum, amaranthus, aster, baby's breath, bachelor button,
balsam, basil, calendula, California poppy, candytuft, cardinal climber,
catmint, cleome, celosia, cockscomb, coleus, dianthus, four o'clock,
geranium, globe amaranth, gourds, ornamental grass, hyacinth bean,
impatiens, flowering kale, larkspur, lobelia, marigold, melampodium,
moonflower, morning glory, moss rose, nasturtium, nicotiana, nigella,
pansy, petunia, phlox, pincushion flower, rudbeckia, salvia, scarlet
runner bean, Shirley poppy, snapgragon, statice, strawflower, sunflower,
Texas bluebonnet, tithonia, verbena, vinca and zinnia.
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS:
Pull weeds when they’re
small. Deadhead (pick off faded flowers) daily. The more you do this,
the better the plants will bloom. Pick off any dead or sick-looking
leaves from plant or ground around plant. Don’t add diseased or
insect-infested stems to your compost (they may live over winter). Look
for insects, and hand-pick them. A hard spray from the hose will help
wash off many pests. Beneficial insects (ladybugs) and birds can help
eat insect pests.
COMMON INSECTS
Small,
soft-bodied, translucent insects, color green, red, brown or black,
which suck plant juices. Found on shoots, under leaves and on flower
buds. Can stunt or deform leaves or flowers. Sticky residue
("honeydew") usually present, which attracts ants. Control:
ladybugs, strong spray from hose, insecticidal soap.
Beetles
Adults chew leaves, flowers and stems; larvae (grubs) chew roots.
Control: Pick beetles off and knock into a can of kerosene and
water.
Caterpillars
Larvae
of moths and butterflies feed on leaves, buds and flowers, mostly in
spring. Buds are chewed, leaves may be rolled up around the worm.
Control: Remove affected buds and leaves.
Mites Tiny colonies of
red or brown spiders in webs under leaves; suck plant juices and
cause leaves to turn stippled, grayish, then fall. Control: Clean up
plant debris around plants in spring. Wash off with a spray from the
hose; do this daily and try to get the underside of the leaves. Can
spray with insecticidal soap or miticide.
Whiteflies
Scale-like, flat, oval pale green or brown in nymph stage, white
winged adults which fly up in a cloud the plant is disturbed.
Mottled leaves, turn yellow and die. Control: Difficult.
COMMON DISEASES
White, powdery patches on leaves, shoots, buds; stunted foliage or
distorted shoots. Spread by wind, splashing water, plant debris.
Control: Remove affected plant parts, dispose.
Fungus Diseases (Rust)
Yellow dots on tops,
rusty patches underneath leaves. Spread by wind, splashing water,
plant debris from previous season. Control: Remove affected plant
parts, dispose.
Virus Diseases (Mosaic, Aster
Yellows)
Mottled or mosaic patterns on leaves; stunted or distorted growth.
Control: Spread by aphids or leafhoppers. Remove and dispose of
affected plants. No real cure. Rotate your flowers around in
different places each year.
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ABOUT PERENNIAL FLOWERS
WHAT IS A PERENNIAL?
A perennial plant
is hardy (lives over the winter in most areas of the country). Most take
two years until they are old enough to bloom. Plants may live for
several, or many, years. Perennial vegetables such as asparagus and
rhubarb may take several years until they are old enough to harvest. A
biennial takes 2 years to mature and bloom. After blooming, it dies. To
have bloom year after year with biennial flowers, plant seed EVERY year.
Click here for Zone Map.
HOW TO USE PERENNIALS IN YOUR GARDEN:
Plant in clumps of
at least 3 plants together. Repeat elsewhere in the garden (provides
more blooms and pleasing repetition of shape and color). Allow space for
plants to grow (if too crowded, can’t bloom well)
COMBINING OTHER PLANTS WITH PERENNIALS:
Combine perennial
flowering plants, which normally have a limited blooming period, with
spring-flowering bulbs, summer flowering bulbs, and annual flowering
plants. Plan for flowers which bloom at different times, from spring to
fall.
PLANT COMBINATIONS TO TRY FOR EXTENDED BLOOM TIME
(perennials in red):
- Delphinium and Lupine with Lunaria, Forget
Me Not, Ageratum, Lobelia and Sweet Alyssum
- Echinacea and Liatris with Lilies and
Vinca, Scabiosa and Cornflowers
- Black Eyed Susan, Butterfly Weed and
Blanketflower with Marigolds, Celosia and Zinnias
- Rudbeckia and Hollyhocks with Cannas,
Gladiolus and Zinnias, Verbena and Snapdragons.
- Use your imagination -- Anything
goes!
FAVORITE PERENNIAL &
BIENNIAL (in red below)
FLOWERS
FROM SEED INCLUDE:
Achillea,
Alyssum, Anchusa,
Asclepias,
Aster, Baby's Breath, Balloon Flower, Bellflower, Black Eyed Susan,
Blanketflower,
Cactus, Carnation,
Cerastium,
Columbine, Coreopsis, Cupid's Dart, Dahlia, Daisy Fleabane, Dame's
Rocket, Delphinium, Echinacea, English Daisy, English Wallflower,
Evening Primrose, Forget-me-not, Foxglove,
Geum,
Fountain grass,
Heliopsis,
Hollyhock, Iceland Poppy, Jacob's Ladder, Jupiter's Beard, Lavender,
Liatris, Linum,
Lunaria,
Lupine, Maltese Cross, Oriental Poppy, Painted Daisy, Persian
Cornflower, Red Hot Poker, Rock Cress, Rock Soapwort,
Rudbeckia,
Salvia, Shasta Daisy, Sweet William, Tansy, Veronica and Viola.
HOW TO GROW PERENNIALS
PLAN YOUR GARDEN:
Sketch the area on graph
paper. Put similar plants together in clumps of at least 3. Allow space
(one to one-half times plant height.
Evaluate and Prepare Soil:
Select an area
that's well-drained (no puddles after rain). Improve soil by adding
plenty of organic material before establishing your garden, and do so
every year thereafter. Loosen soil by tilling or digging to a depth of
6-12 inches. Turn over well, forking in the organic material. If a soil
test indicates, spread a balanced fertilizer over the area, and work in.
Smooth the soil surface and mark the locations for planting. If starting
a new garden in spring, wait until your soil has passed the "clump"
test. A palm-full of soil should stick together when squeezed, then
break apart into medium-sized particles. At this point, it’s safe to
work soil.
PLANTING:
Dig a large hole
for each plant. Set dormant perennial plants at the level indicated on
the plant label. If it says "1 inch deep", that means the crown of
plants (top or growing point) should be 1" below the soil surface. Roots
should be placed deeper, pointing downward or sideways. Other plants
should be set in ground at the same level they were in pot. Mulch around
each plant (a 2-3 inch layer).
WATERING:
Water each plant
well during and right after planting. Each plant should be given about a
gallon of water, slowly, so it can soak in around the roots.
PERENNIAL PLANT CARE:
Divide Perennial
plants grow larger each year, by spreading outwards and making a larger
clump, competing for space and nutrients. The inner part of the plant
tends to die out. Divide clumps after your 3 or 4 years. Late Fall Clean
Up Remove dead leaves from around plants. When they have died back, trim
off to about 3" above ground. When soil freezes solid, mulch to prevent
frost heaving which can damage plant roots.
HOW TO GROW SPECIFIC PERENNIAL PLANTS:
- Bearded Iris This
long-lived perennial is also called German Iris or Flags. Grow in
full sun. Plant at soil level, about 24 in. apart. Usually blooms
first year after planting. Plants bloom in late spring. Use balanced
fertilizer after bloom. Sword-like foliage is attractive spring and
fall. Clumps get bigger each year. Easy to grow. Divide clumps every
three or four years and replant. Sometimes may show silvered,
streaky foliage (could be infested with thrips).
- Oriental Poppies A
long-lived perennial. Grow in full sun. Plant 5 in. deep, about 18
in. apart. Once planted, leave undisturbed. May not bloom for
several years after planting. Hairy, toothed leaves appear in late
fall, live over into spring. Plants bloom in late spring. Use
balanced fertilizer after bloom. Foliage dies down and nothing is
seen until foliage begins to grow again in late fall. Clumps get
bigger each year. Fine cut flower; singe the cut ends with a flame
for longest-lasting flowers. No particular growing problems.
- Peonies A long-lived
perennial. Grow in full sun. Planting too deeply is a common
mistake. Plant at soil surface or just below. Once planted, leave
undisturbed. May not bloom for several years after planting. Staking
plants before they bloom is a good idea because flower heads are
heavy. Plants bloom in late spring. Use balanced fertilizer after
bloom. Foliage is very attractive and resembles a shrub from spring
until late fall. Clumps get bigger each year. Fine cut flower --
sweetly fragrant. No particular growing problems.
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
PREVENT PROBLEMS:
Pull weeds when they’re
small. Pick off any dead or sick-looking leaves or flowers from plant or
ground around plant. Don’t add diseased or insect-infested stems to your
compost (they may live over winter). Look for insects, and hand-pick
them. A hard spray from the hose will help wash off many pests.
Beneficial insects (ladybugs) and birds can help eat insect pests.
COMMON INSECTS
- APHIDS Small,
soft-bodied, translucent insects, color green, red, brown or black,
which suck plant juices. Found on shoots, under leaves and on flower
buds. Can stunt or deform leaves or flowers. Sticky residue
("honeydew") usually present, which attracts ants. Control:
ladybugs, strong spray from hose, insecticidal soap; or contact
spray.
- BEETLES Adults chew
leaves, flowers and stems; larvae (grubs) chew roots. Control: Pick
beetles off and knock into a can of kerosene and water, or spray
with appropriate chemical.
- CATERPILLARS Larvae of
moths and butterflies feed on leaves, buds and flowers, mostly in
spring. Buds are chewed, leaves may be rolled up around the worm.
Control: Remove affected buds and leaves; or use contact spray.
- MITES Tiny colonies of
red or brown spiders in webs under leaves; suck plant juices and
cause leaves to turn stippled, grayish, then fall. Control: Clean up
plant debris around plants in spring. Can spray with insecticidal
soap or miticide.
- THRIPS Tiny brown-yellow
winged insets cause flecked or silver-white stippling, streak on
leaves and flowers. Control: Cut off and dispose of faded flowers.
Can spray with appropriate chemical.
- WHITEFLIES Scale-like,
flat, oval pale green or brown in nymph stage, white winged adults
which fly up in a cloud the plant is disturbed. Mottled leaves, turn
yellow and die. Control: Difficult. Spray with appropriate chemical.
COMMON DISEASES
- BOTRYTIS BLIGHT (Gray Mold)
Grayish-brown fuzzy mold found on weak foliage or stems and on
flowers which are fading. Control: Pick off affected parts, dispose
of but don’t compost; or spray with fungicide.
- FUNGUS (Powdery Mildew)
White, powdery patches on leaves, shoots, buds; stunted foliage or
distorted shoots. Spread by wind, splashing water, plant debris.
Control: Remove affected plant parts, dispose. Can spray with
fungicide.
- FUNGUS DISEASES (Rust)
Yellow dots on tops, rusty patches underneath leaves. Spread by
wind, splashing water, plant debris from previous season. Control:
Remove affected plant parts, dispose. Can spray with fungicide.
- VIRUS DISEASES (Mosaic, Aster
Yellows) Mottled or mosaic patterns on leaves; stunted or
distorted growth. Control: Spread by aphids or leafhoppers. Remove
and dispose of affected plants. No real cure.
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ABOUT HERBS
GROWING HERBS IN A KITCHEN GARDEN:
If you love to cook, you
need a kitchen garden with lots of fresh herbs to pick! Have one this
summer, situated in a handy place not far from the stove. Nothing beats
the flavor of fresh herbs!
Gardens of edible plants were planted and maintained in the earliest
days of America. Thomas Jefferson’s gardens at Monticello are notable
both for their design and their variety of vegetables and herbs. These
types of gardens are often called "kitchen gardens" because of their
convenient placement near the Colonial kitchen, which was usually in a
separate small outbuilding (in case of a fire).
Your cooking garden, to start with, could contain a few basic herbs and
salad greens. One easy way to create such a garden is to build a small
raised square, using pressure-treated landscaping ties or the new
recycled plastic ties. If you have an old sandbox, use that! Or make a
freeform or rectangular garden. Draw the shape on paper, and make a list
of what you’d like to grow.
You don’t need a lot of herb plants for savory cooking additions -- just
a sprig or two of fresh herbs lend a piquant flavor to your recipes. One
to three plants of each will be plenty for a small family. If you like,
include some bunching onions and lettuce in your Cooking Garden. All are
easily grown from seeds! To plant, follow the easy directions provided
on the seed packets.
CAN I GROW HERBS INDOORS IN WINTER?
Sure -- any time of
year! We suggest especially parsley, chives, basil, sage, oregano and
thyme, because the plants stay small. Plant seeds in 4 to 6 inch pots
filled with growing medium, and place in a sunny window. Clip off small
sprigs as needed. Plants will thrive for a year or more indoors; then
replant. You can also grow herbs indoors under fluorescent lights. Herb
plants MUST have bright light in order to produce flavorful sprigs.
IS SUMMER TOO LATE TO START AN HERB GARDEN?
No. Annual herbs
such as basil and dill grow quickly in warm summer weather. You can also
start any perennial herbs in summer, and you’ll still be able to harvest
some this year. The next year, the plants will have grown into large
clumps for harvesting from spring onwards. May through July is fine for
planting annual herbs; June through August is fine for planting
perennial herbs.
USING HERBS
TO DRY HERBS:
Cut young stems and leaves
early in the day. Harvest before plants begin to flower. Bunch loosely
and hang upside down in warm, airy place for 2-3 weeks, or spread small
pieces on dehydrator tray and allow to dry completely.
TO DRY HERB SEEDS (Caraway, Dill):
Cut heads after
flower heads have passed their prime (seeds are then developing). Catch
seed heads in a paper bag. Shake bag to separate seeds from chaff.
TO STORE DRIED HERBS AND SEEDS:
Put in airtight
jars. Keep out of sunlight. Use as desired.
TO FREEZE HERBS:
Place small, clean,
dry pieces on cookie sheet. Freeze several hours. Place in freezer bags.
Flavors keep for several months. Use as needed. |
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